The restaurant has twelve seats, no sign on the door and a menu written in pencil every afternoon. Its chef has turned down the inspectors twice. He wants to cook, he says, not to perform.
A menu written at four o'clock
Every afternoon he walks through the market and decides what to cook that evening. Nothing is printed. If the fish is not good, there is no fish.
Why he says no
"Stars change the people who come," he told us. "They come to judge, not to eat." He would rather have twelve regulars than a waiting list of strangers.
The evening
Seven courses, no explanations unless you ask, and a dessert he invented that afternoon. It was the best meal of our year, and we will not tell you where it is.
