Her list has no famous labels. Not one. Only small growers, many of them farming fewer than five hectares, some making a few hundred bottles a year.
"Anyone can sell a great name," she says. "My job is to make you love a wine you have never heard of." She succeeds, every night, one table at a time.
Ask her for something surprising and she will disappear into the cellar for a long time. It is always worth the wait.