A chef cooks the same dish all year long, and lets the seasons rewrite it.
On her menu there is one dish that never leaves: a simple plate of vegetables, grains and a sauce. What changes is everything inside it.
In spring it is peas and mint. In summer, tomatoes and basil. In autumn, mushrooms and hazelnuts. She counts five seasons, not four: the fifth is the short weeks between summer and autumn, when everything is ripe at once.
"The plate is a frame," she says. "The season is the painting."
Why dinners for twenty are coming back to country houses and city apartments alike.
Twelve covers, a menu that changes every night and no interest whatsoever in guides.
No famous names, only small growers and bottles with a story. Meet the sommelier behind it.
One long read, three rare addresses and an image no one has seen yet.
